Day 15 photos (1)

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Day 15: Bettyhill to John O'Groats

And so we've made it...

Cycling distance 50.7 miles

Total cycling distance: 1,018 miles

A relatively short day again but we still decided to get on our way by 930 in order to finish our final day in good time.

The first 15 miles or so in the overcast but warm conditions were pretty hard going with plenty of hills as we made our way across our final county boundary from Sutherland into Caithness.

The easterly route across the north coast of Scotland afforded some more spectacular remote views until we passed the huge ugly Durness the nuclear power station.

By 1pm, we arrived in Thurso with just 20 miles to go to John O'Groats. By this time, the overcast conditions had turned to beautiful sunshine and we enjoyed a sandwich feeling a bit surreal about having only a couple more hours of cycling left. One last stock upon provisions and a bottle of champagne and we set off slowly into a strong headwind.

Arrived finally into John O'Groats shortly after 4pm and it felt pretty surreal to actually be there and a bit of an anticlimax to be honest as there's nothing much to see! Similar to Lands end, they'd created a tourist attraction with no attraction.

Had our mandatory ripoff photograph in front of the signpost and cracked open the bottle of champagne. With the inevitable psychological relief of finally reaching JOG, we sacked off the idea of cycling the last 17miles to our accomodation in Wick and instead called for a taxi. As we found out, a lot of cyclists reach the end and decide to get a taxi to Wick -so we felt in good company.

Met at our accomodation over looking the Wick harbour by friendly geordie landlady with a welcome whisky to celebrate. Washed, changed and headed out to celebrate with a beer and a curry. By 11pm again, we were shattered and headed off back to the B+B.

Finished!

Arrived in John O'Groats shortly after 4pm after a tough 50 miles across the north coast. Delighted and relived to have made it after 1018 miles.

Day 14 photos (2)

Cycling along Loch Naver

The view from Bettyhill Hotel

Day 14 photos (1)

Bonar Bridge

Leaving Bonar Bridge

Day 14: Bonar Bridge to Bettyhill

Cycling distance 55.6miles

Average speed 12.66mph

Having read other peoples account of this day and the remote scenery encountered, it helped to shift my tired body out of bed and onto the bike for the penultimate day.

After a breakfast served by the disciplinarian b+b owner, we set on our way from bonar bridge along the Kyle of Sutherland through Invershin to Lairg 10 miles away. As we arrived in Lairg, Nick did his good samaritan part by spotting a dog in the layby and then ringing the owner who had posted a lost poster at the local garage - aaah sweet!

From there we made our way north in the overcast but warm conditions onto the A836 and the single track road that suited the lack of traffic we were to encounter throughout the day. For the first time in a while we were cycling in almost total silence through heathland reminiscent of rural Devon.

Arrived in Althurra expecting a pub for lunch but instead found only a few houses. Ed had his turn for a problem with his back wheel with one of the spokes popping out. A temporary fix for the bike followed by some babybel, peanuts and scottish tablet (bought earlier at the co-op in bonar bridge), we then ploughed on towards our desination along the shores of Loch Naver and the gentle floodplain of the river of the same name. Great scenery but we started to struggle with energy for the last 10miles or so from the lack of a decent lunch.

Still, arrived in Bettyhill at the only hotel/ accomodation (not too distant from Faulty Towers) in the village at around 4.30 and settled in for a couple of games of pool and another early meal then bed ready for a welcome final but surreal push tomorrow to John O'Groats.

Day 13: photos

Urquart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness

Descent into Bonar Bridge

Day 13: Invermoriston to Bonar Bridge

Cycling distance: 62.7miles
Av speed: 12.54mph

Set off shortly after 9.15 and made our way along the north side of Loch Ness to Drumnadrochit and the beautiful Urquhart castle. Stopped for some lucozade and some energy bars in anticipation of the mother of all hills - a 15 percent killer incline for over a mile.
Recovered and made quick progress through Beauly to the sleepy town of Dingwall at the end of the Cromarty Firth. A sandwich for lunch and we were on our way again over the hills past Alness and some more stunning heathland scenery reminiscent of cornwall and devon.

Arrived in Bonar bridge shortly after 4pm and enjoyed some daytime tv before some more beers and a great meal at the local bistro.

Day 12 photos

Connel bridge over the Falls of Lora

Loch Linnhe

Ferry across Loch Lochy to Fort William with Ben Nevis in the background

The Caledonian Canal towards Fort Augustus

Day 12: Connel to Invermoriston

Cycling total: 83.5miles
Av speed: 12.14mph

Woke up to a stunning morning in Connel and set off (after a hearty breakfast served by Ross) in the sunshine over the Connel bridge. It was an awesome ride around Loch Linhey and Ballachulish and before we knew it we were 30 miles to the good and cruising with the wind at our backs. We reached the Corran ferry with the aim of crossing the loch to have a better view of Ben Nevis. We got to the other side and discovered that the return ferry left in 35 mins, just over 10 miles away! There was only one thing to do, just go for it!

We just made it, luckily because the Captain of the boat had stopped to chat with someone. A quick crossing to Fort William with more amazing views of Ben Nevis before lunch in the sun and a quick look around the town. Then onwards to Invergarry, just before Nick's tyre began to buckle and he had to head back to Fort William. Paddy and I continued on towards the Caledonian Canal which we cycled for the last 5 miles into Fort Augustus where we waited for Nick over a couple of pints.

Nick then arrived with his bike as good as new and we hot-footed it the last 6 miles to Invermoriston on the shores of Loch Ness. We found a guy willing to serve us some food still as it was really late, almost 8.30pm.

A good pie and couple of pies later, we bypassed the vibrant nightlife of Invermoriston and headed to bed.

Day 11 photos (2)

Oban quayside

Connel sunset over Falls of Lora from the Rowans B&B

Day 11 photos (1)

On the 8.15am Lochranza to Clanaoig

Descent to Loch Tarbert

Day 11: Lochranza (Isle of Arran) to Connel

Cycle distance 69.5m
Av speed 12.03

Got up extra early in order to get the first ferry back onto the mainland at Claonaig. Another great cooked breakfast and by 8am we were out the door and at the ferry port in Lochranza for the smooth 30min crossing.

Received a bit of a shock as we left the ferry and saw a cycle route sign showing Oban as being 91 miles away and therefore a day of close to 100 miles in store. Nick and Ed were far from being amused especially as the first 5 miles across the spit was pretty hilly and even caused me to doubt whether I had planned the route correctly.

Luckily as the road improved and we made our way along Loch Tarbert to the town of the same name and saw that Oban was actually 55+ miles as expected. A great little fishing town and the first of many we passed situated on the lochs.

Continued to make good progress to Lochgilphead along flattish roads at the side of lochs. A tea stop and we were on our way across the hills and some diffificult climbs.

Arrived in Oban after 60miles to catch up on emails at an internet cafe before going to our b+b overlooking the stunning falls of lora. A pint outside at the pub next door before moving inside to eat as the midges were again out in force.

Wondered back shortly before 10:30 just as the sun had set over the loch - brilliant!

Day 10 photos (Arran)

Enjoying a well deserved pint on the Ardrossan to Brodick ferry

Fantastic descent into Lochranza on the Isle of Arran

Lochranza castle at sunset

Day 10 photos

Leaving the Ken Bridge hotel

The Troon seaside

Day 10: New Galloway to Lochranza (Isle of Arran)

As we were aiming to get the 3.15pm ferry from Ardrossan to Isle of Arran 60miles away, we had an early-ish breakfast and were on on our way by 8.45am.

Weighed down by our breakfasts and the hilly Galloway route, the first 12miles were pretty slow and when we stopped for refreshments at Carsphairn, the likelihood of reaching the ferry in time seemed pretty slim.

However, the tailwind, the cool overcast conditions and generally downhill route meant that we reached Ayr on the coast in good time just before midday. Getting temporarily a little lost through the town centre , we continued along the coast to Prestwick and toasted sandwiches for lunch on seafront.

Cycled on the coastal path towards the numerous golf courses surrounding Troon including the famous Royal Troon GC.

Through the forgettable Irvine town centre, we arrived at the end of the urban metropolis at Ardrossan 30mins before departure. A comfortable ferry crossing helped by with a couple of pints before disapproving looks as we were last to leave the ferry on arrival into Brodick and the beautiful sunshine.

A quick stock up on provisions before we headed along the east coast towards Lochranza. A great coastal path passing pretty fishing villages of Corrie and Sannox before heading inland to the hills. Without a doubt this was my favourite part of the trip so far. A hard climb up to the centre of the island taking in the stunning peaks and views to the sea either side before a fantastic descent into Lochranza. A quick look around the castle before checking in with our hosts (ex-Londoners who had escaped the big smoke)
at a nice B+b two doors down from the local pub. A couple more beers and some grub we headed back in the still daylight at 930pm ready for the early start tomorrow.

Day 9; Penrith to New Galloway

Cycle total 85.3miles
Av speed 12.13mph

A large breakfast served up by the delightful Joan set us up nicely for what was to prove the longest day so far in terms of mileage. Nick and I set off at 9.15 while Patrick was getting his bike fixed and we raced along the 20 miles to Carlisle in the dry. We got to Morrisons just N of Carlisle and waited for Paddy who made even faster progress and caught us up quickly afterwards, his new back wheel proving stronger than the first! Then the rain finally caught up with us as we were heading N which put a bit of a dampner on things. Had a bit of an argument approaching Gretna about whether to go on a short stretch of fairly busy dual carriageway (which is what Ed wanted to do) or be a soft-cock and go round the houses adding an extra 6 miles to the day (which is what the young whipper snappers wanted). In the end 2 beat 1 and we went the long way round and into Gretna and then Scotland! Reached Annan for lunch in Subway and an attempt to dry off a bit and then continued on the B724 whilst the countryside was getting more and more remote and stunning. Got to Dumfries and stopped for afternoon tea. It was a long climb out of Dumfries and I started to feel very weak so a shot of sugar and an easy couple of miles were in order. Turned off the main road for the final 13 miles to Balmaclellan and New Galloway. Watched a sheep almost suffer the ultimate humiliation when it was narrowly avoided by a chav. In good spirits during the final few miles and we got to the Ken Bridge hotel. A couple of lovely pints of Belhaven Best over a massive and good dinner in the old dining room and were happy as pigs in the proverbial.

Day 8 photos

Day 8 (saturday): Bashall Eaves to Penrith

Trip distance; 67miles
Av speed; 10.64

Set off from the Red Pump Inn after another full English into beautiful sunshine and stunning countryside. However, also with that we had some pretty steep hills to go up and down and up. Arrived in high Bentham after crossing the best scenery I'd encountered so far on the trip through the Forest of Bowland.

A stock upon lucozade later we continued the 8 miles to Kirby Lonsdale where we found a good little pub in a nearby village for a cheese ploughmans. My back wheel at this point had started to buckle quite badly and I contemplated but decided against diverting across the hills into kendal instead carried onto get it fixed at our destination to save on time.

Following the B roads hugging the railway and m6, we moved slowly along the east side of the lake district before climbing a long shallow 5+ mile hill into Shap. The a6 then provided the route to Penrith and our accommodation at the Norcroft guest house run by Paul who was very helpful in helping with getting my back wheel sorted. A great curry at Cagneys in the town centre before heading off to bed.