Sunday 8 June 2008

Day 15 photos (1)


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Day 15: Bettyhill to John O'Groats

And so we've made it...

Cycling distance 50.7 miles

Total cycling distance: 1,018 miles

A relatively short day again but we still decided to get on our way by 930 in order to finish our final day in good time.

The first 15 miles or so in the overcast but warm conditions were pretty hard going with plenty of hills as we made our way across our final county boundary from Sutherland into Caithness.

The easterly route across the north coast of Scotland afforded some more spectacular remote views until we passed the huge ugly Durness the nuclear power station.

By 1pm, we arrived in Thurso with just 20 miles to go to John O'Groats. By this time, the overcast conditions had turned to beautiful sunshine and we enjoyed a sandwich feeling a bit surreal about having only a couple more hours of cycling left. One last stock upon provisions and a bottle of champagne and we set off slowly into a strong headwind.

Arrived finally into John O'Groats shortly after 4pm and it felt pretty surreal to actually be there and a bit of an anticlimax to be honest as there's nothing much to see! Similar to Lands end, they'd created a tourist attraction with no attraction.

Had our mandatory ripoff photograph in front of the signpost and cracked open the bottle of champagne. With the inevitable psychological relief of finally reaching JOG, we sacked off the idea of cycling the last 17miles to our accomodation in Wick and instead called for a taxi. As we found out, a lot of cyclists reach the end and decide to get a taxi to Wick -so we felt in good company.

Met at our accomodation over looking the Wick harbour by friendly geordie landlady with a welcome whisky to celebrate. Washed, changed and headed out to celebrate with a beer and a curry. By 11pm again, we were shattered and headed off back to the B+B.

Saturday 7 June 2008

Finished!

Arrived in John O'Groats shortly after 4pm after a tough 50 miles across the north coast. Delighted and relived to have made it after 1018 miles.

Friday 6 June 2008

Day 14 photos (2)

Cycling along Loch Naver

The view from Bettyhill Hotel

Day 14 photos (1)

Bonar Bridge

Leaving Bonar Bridge

Day 14: Bonar Bridge to Bettyhill

Cycling distance 55.6miles

Average speed 12.66mph

Having read other peoples account of this day and the remote scenery encountered, it helped to shift my tired body out of bed and onto the bike for the penultimate day.

After a breakfast served by the disciplinarian b+b owner, we set on our way from bonar bridge along the Kyle of Sutherland through Invershin to Lairg 10 miles away. As we arrived in Lairg, Nick did his good samaritan part by spotting a dog in the layby and then ringing the owner who had posted a lost poster at the local garage - aaah sweet!


From there we made our way north in the overcast but warm conditions onto the A836 and the single track road that suited the lack of traffic we were to encounter throughout the day. For the first time in a while we were cycling in almost total silence through heathland reminiscent of rural Devon.

Arrived in Althurra expecting a pub for lunch but instead found only a few houses. Ed had his turn for a problem with his back wheel with one of the spokes popping out. A temporary fix for the bike followed by some babybel, peanuts and scottish tablet (bought earlier at the co-op in bonar bridge), we then ploughed on towards our desination along the shores of Loch Naver and the gentle floodplain of the river of the same name. Great scenery but we started to struggle with energy for the last 10miles or so from the lack of a decent lunch.

Still, arrived in Bettyhill at the only hotel/ accomodation (not too distant from Faulty Towers) in the village at around 4.30 and settled in for a couple of games of pool and another early meal then bed ready for a welcome final but surreal push tomorrow to John O'Groats.

Thursday 5 June 2008

Day 13: photos

Urquart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness

Descent into Bonar Bridge

Day 13: Invermoriston to Bonar Bridge

Cycling distance: 62.7miles
Av speed: 12.54mph

Set off shortly after 9.15 and made our way along the north side of Loch Ness to Drumnadrochit and the beautiful Urquhart castle. Stopped for some lucozade and some energy bars in anticipation of the mother of all hills - a 15 percent killer incline for over a mile.
Recovered and made quick progress through Beauly to the sleepy town of Dingwall at the end of the Cromarty Firth. A sandwich for lunch and we were on our way again over the hills past Alness and some more stunning heathland scenery reminiscent of cornwall and devon.

Arrived in Bonar bridge shortly after 4pm and enjoyed some daytime tv before some more beers and a great meal at the local bistro.

Day 12 photos

Connel bridge over the Falls of Lora

Loch Linnhe

Ferry across Loch Lochy to Fort William with Ben Nevis in the background

The Caledonian Canal towards Fort Augustus

Day 12: Connel to Invermoriston

Cycling total: 83.5miles
Av speed: 12.14mph

Woke up to a stunning morning in Connel and set off (after a hearty breakfast served by Ross) in the sunshine over the Connel bridge. It was an awesome ride around Loch Linhey and Ballachulish and before we knew it we were 30 miles to the good and cruising with the wind at our backs. We reached the Corran ferry with the aim of crossing the loch to have a better view of Ben Nevis. We got to the other side and discovered that the return ferry left in 35 mins, just over 10 miles away! There was only one thing to do, just go for it!

We just made it, luckily because the Captain of the boat had stopped to chat with someone. A quick crossing to Fort William with more amazing views of Ben Nevis before lunch in the sun and a quick look around the town. Then onwards to Invergarry, just before Nick's tyre began to buckle and he had to head back to Fort William. Paddy and I continued on towards the Caledonian Canal which we cycled for the last 5 miles into Fort Augustus where we waited for Nick over a couple of pints.

Nick then arrived with his bike as good as new and we hot-footed it the last 6 miles to Invermoriston on the shores of Loch Ness. We found a guy willing to serve us some food still as it was really late, almost 8.30pm.

A good pie and couple of pies later, we bypassed the vibrant nightlife of Invermoriston and headed to bed.

Day 11 photos (2)

Oban quayside

Connel sunset over Falls of Lora from the Rowans B&B

Day 11 photos (1)

On the 8.15am Lochranza to Clanaoig

Descent to Loch Tarbert

Day 11: Lochranza (Isle of Arran) to Connel

Cycle distance 69.5m
Av speed 12.03

Got up extra early in order to get the first ferry back onto the mainland at Claonaig. Another great cooked breakfast and by 8am we were out the door and at the ferry port in Lochranza for the smooth 30min crossing.

Received a bit of a shock as we left the ferry and saw a cycle route sign showing Oban as being 91 miles away and therefore a day of close to 100 miles in store. Nick and Ed were far from being amused especially as the first 5 miles across the spit was pretty hilly and even caused me to doubt whether I had planned the route correctly.

Luckily as the road improved and we made our way along Loch Tarbert to the town of the same name and saw that Oban was actually 55+ miles as expected. A great little fishing town and the first of many we passed situated on the lochs.

Continued to make good progress to Lochgilphead along flattish roads at the side of lochs. A tea stop and we were on our way across the hills and some diffificult climbs.

Arrived in Oban after 60miles to catch up on emails at an internet cafe before going to our b+b overlooking the stunning falls of lora. A pint outside at the pub next door before moving inside to eat as the midges were again out in force.

Wondered back shortly before 10:30 just as the sun had set over the loch - brilliant!

Tuesday 3 June 2008

Day 10 photos (Arran)

Enjoying a well deserved pint on the Ardrossan to Brodick ferry

Fantastic descent into Lochranza on the Isle of Arran

Lochranza castle at sunset

Day 10 photos

Leaving the Ken Bridge hotel

The Troon seaside

Monday 2 June 2008

Day 10: New Galloway to Lochranza (Isle of Arran)

As we were aiming to get the 3.15pm ferry from Ardrossan to Isle of Arran 60miles away, we had an early-ish breakfast and were on on our way by 8.45am.

Weighed down by our breakfasts and the hilly Galloway route, the first 12miles were pretty slow and when we stopped for refreshments at Carsphairn, the likelihood of reaching the ferry in time seemed pretty slim.

However, the tailwind, the cool overcast conditions and generally downhill route meant that we reached Ayr on the coast in good time just before midday. Getting temporarily a little lost through the town centre , we continued along the coast to Prestwick and toasted sandwiches for lunch on seafront.

Cycled on the coastal path towards the numerous golf courses surrounding Troon including the famous Royal Troon GC.

Through the forgettable Irvine town centre, we arrived at the end of the urban metropolis at Ardrossan 30mins before departure. A comfortable ferry crossing helped by with a couple of pints before disapproving looks as we were last to leave the ferry on arrival into Brodick and the beautiful sunshine.

A quick stock up on provisions before we headed along the east coast towards Lochranza. A great coastal path passing pretty fishing villages of Corrie and Sannox before heading inland to the hills. Without a doubt this was my favourite part of the trip so far. A hard climb up to the centre of the island taking in the stunning peaks and views to the sea either side before a fantastic descent into Lochranza. A quick look around the castle before checking in with our hosts (ex-Londoners who had escaped the big smoke)
at a nice B+b two doors down from the local pub. A couple more beers and some grub we headed back in the still daylight at 930pm ready for the early start tomorrow.

Day 9; Penrith to New Galloway

Cycle total 85.3miles
Av speed 12.13mph

A large breakfast served up by the delightful Joan set us up nicely for what was to prove the longest day so far in terms of mileage. Nick and I set off at 9.15 while Patrick was getting his bike fixed and we raced along the 20 miles to Carlisle in the dry. We got to Morrisons just N of Carlisle and waited for Paddy who made even faster progress and caught us up quickly afterwards, his new back wheel proving stronger than the first! Then the rain finally caught up with us as we were heading N which put a bit of a dampner on things. Had a bit of an argument approaching Gretna about whether to go on a short stretch of fairly busy dual carriageway (which is what Ed wanted to do) or be a soft-cock and go round the houses adding an extra 6 miles to the day (which is what the young whipper snappers wanted). In the end 2 beat 1 and we went the long way round and into Gretna and then Scotland! Reached Annan for lunch in Subway and an attempt to dry off a bit and then continued on the B724 whilst the countryside was getting more and more remote and stunning. Got to Dumfries and stopped for afternoon tea. It was a long climb out of Dumfries and I started to feel very weak so a shot of sugar and an easy couple of miles were in order. Turned off the main road for the final 13 miles to Balmaclellan and New Galloway. Watched a sheep almost suffer the ultimate humiliation when it was narrowly avoided by a chav. In good spirits during the final few miles and we got to the Ken Bridge hotel. A couple of lovely pints of Belhaven Best over a massive and good dinner in the old dining room and were happy as pigs in the proverbial.

Day 8 photos

Sunday 1 June 2008

Day 8 (saturday): Bashall Eaves to Penrith

Trip distance; 67miles
Av speed; 10.64

Set off from the Red Pump Inn after another full English into beautiful sunshine and stunning countryside. However, also with that we had some pretty steep hills to go up and down and up. Arrived in high Bentham after crossing the best scenery I'd encountered so far on the trip through the Forest of Bowland.

A stock upon lucozade later we continued the 8 miles to Kirby Lonsdale where we found a good little pub in a nearby village for a cheese ploughmans. My back wheel at this point had started to buckle quite badly and I contemplated but decided against diverting across the hills into kendal instead carried onto get it fixed at our destination to save on time.

Following the B roads hugging the railway and m6, we moved slowly along the east side of the lake district before climbing a long shallow 5+ mile hill into Shap. The a6 then provided the route to Penrith and our accommodation at the Norcroft guest house run by Paul who was very helpful in helping with getting my back wheel sorted. A great curry at Cagneys in the town centre before heading off to bed.

Saturday 31 May 2008

Day 7 totals

Cycle dist 57.2miles
Avg speed 12.09mph

Friday 30 May 2008

Day 7 photos

Dinner at the Red Pump Inn

Welcome relief from the industrial north west England

The Manchester Ship Canal

Day 7: Mobberley to Bashall Eaves nr Clitheroe

Woke at the crack of dawn (well, 7.30) to freshly laundered clothes and a full english breakfast (including perfectly poached eggs) courtesy of jo. Said our goodbyes and sped out of wilmslow at 9am sharp via the bicycle shop to get some much needed new brake pads.

From there we headed up towards the Manchester ship canal crossing before rolling into Bolton at about midday - being careful to keep moving for fear of having our wheels stolen. We resolved to push on to Blackburn for lunch setting ourselves a target of 2pm, which if we beat we'd reward ourselves with a pint.

Blasting out of Bolton, driven perhaps by the promise of beer, we quickly crossed a range of hills that were reminiscent of cornwall and rolled into Blackburn with minutes to spare.

Instantly wished we'd stayed in Bolton - a cultural and architectural jem by comparison when the only option for food was a weatherspoons. Studiously avoiding eye contact with the locals (they'd clearly never seen cycling clothing before and had patently assumed we were some sort of travelling troupe of lycra clad homosexuals) we settled down with a pint of guinness and some grub.

Politely ignored the chap rooting through our ash tray looking for cigarette stubs and chatted briefly with a young man (no front teeth) who offered us advice on securing our bikes before continuing north.

Raced through the last 15 miles to the pub where we're staying tonight. The Red Pump Inn is a modern, recently refurbished little place near Clitheroe - look it up if you're ever in the area...

Day 6: High Ercall to Mobberley

Distance 59 miles
Cycling time 4hr 18m
Av speed 13.63mph

Woke up in the Mill House b+b to a welcome first sunny morning with weather forecast to remain this way for the rest of the day.

After a great breakfast using tasty local ingredients, we picked up our cycles from stables where we were met by the owner's unusual pets of a donkey, peacock and dog casually strolling around.

Setting off at 9.15 in good spirits, we made the most of the relatively flat terrain by getting some good mileage done to the sleepy town of Market Drayton 15 miles away where we stocked up on energy supplies.

Good progress continued to be made through the cheshire countryside along so much so that when we arrived at Nantwich at 1230 with 32m on clock, a pub lunch as a reward was agreed. Found a good central pub to have a sandwich and a couple of pints - it almost felt as if we were actually on holiday.

After relaxing in the sun for an hour and a half, getting back on the bikes was a bit of a struggle but we targetted the town of Middlewich as the next stop and with this we made swift progress for the next 13 miles. Found a great little pub down by the Trent and Mersey canal to have another refreshment and to do a bit of work on our brakes which have been taking a battering since our start in Cornwall with the mileage and poor weather.

Another straightforward 15miles we arrived in Wilmslow via Mobberley just south of Manchester at about 5pm. Agreed that this had been almost a ' rest day' but also that we're feeling the benefits of being a bit fitter too.

Took the opportunity of an early arrival to hose down the bikes and to do some much needed laundry. Our kind hosts (Nick's sister's fiancee's father and girlfriend) had prepared a great home-cooked lasagne washed down with some wine before retiring to bed.

Thursday 29 May 2008

Day 5 totals

Cycling distance 68.8miles
Cycling time 5h.58m
Av speed 11.48

Wednesday 28 May 2008

Day 5

Well day 5 started slowly, mostly because it was chucking it down again and we eventually got going after faffing around looking for a new phone for me and some really effective waterproof shoes. We thought we'd found some great shoes but after 20 mins of cycling we were as wet as ever. Despite that we made some pretty good progress north out of Hereford. A detour round Shelwick because of the flood, we stopped just outside Bodenham to put some air in Nick's tyres only to put a tear in one of them. Doh! Without a spare inner tube we were a bit fooked. Luckily the very nice people (they all are round here, except the chav who slapped my ass as he was driving past later in the day) could give Nick a lift to Leominster while Patrick and I cycled up there. After lunch in Leominster and only 20 miles done plus no bike shops open, we carried on to the lovely Ludlow to meet Nick who had his bike all fixed. We then made good progress through some smashing countryside following the River Corve to Much Wenlock for a quick coffee, down the hill to Ironbridge, up a mother of a hill skirting round the West of Telford, past the Cock Hotel and on to High Ercall. Wet and tired but a quick change before heading down to the local pub to watch England beat the States and listen to the commentary from the village idiot.

Day 4 totals

Cycle distance 67.3miles
Average speed 11.2mph
Cycling time 5hr 59mins

Tuesday 27 May 2008

Day 3: Shobrooke to Lower Langford

Total dist: 69miles
Cycling time 6hr 50min

By far the toughest day yet. Woke up to rain lashing against the window and for once the bbc weather report of severe weather warnings of heavy rain and gale force winds proved spot on.

Set off into the rain and made slow progress across the hills towards Cullompton and the roads running parallel to the M5. By 130pm we arrived wet, tired and cold from strong headwinds along our route to Wellington with 25miles done. Dried off in a cafe for lunch before moving to a laundrette to dry off cycling gear. Set off again in a brief respite from the rain before arriving in Taunton, joining up with the canal to take us to Bridgwater b efore promptly leaving it again in favour of a tarmac more direct route along the busy A38.

Now in Somerset, the terrain became a bit flatter as the rain eased off again. Made good headway until the passing through the Mendips and onto the Strawberry trail (another great disused railway track running towards Sanford) before finally arriving at our farmhouse B@b at 8.20pm. An unbelievably tiring and miserable day having been going since 9.45 in the morning.

Had a great chinese nearby with nick's sister Noellie and her fiancee Ben before retiring to bed.

Fingers crossed for better weather as we head into wales tomorrow.

Day 4: Lower langford to Hereford

Much improved weather wise with no rain, lighter winds today and consequently a more enjoyable but still tough day.

Making good progress after a great farmhouse cooked breakfast, we clocked up 15 miles by 1030am and stopped next to the Avonmouth bridge near Bristol for some food and lucozade. Headed towards the second severn bridge along the windy waterfront by Avonmouth and Severn Beach into south Glocestershire.

Crossing the severn bridge, we met a solo cyclist doing JOG-LE who had experienced similar bad weather that we had had but at least the wind was with him!

Satisfied with progress, we stopped for lunch in Chepstow and then moved through the beautiful Wye valley past Tentin abbey to Monmouth and refreshments. A hilly route afterwards meant slow progress towards Hereford but still arrived 2hrs earlier than yesterday at 630pm.

Stumbled to an Italian for a bit more carb loading and a couple of beers.

Monday 26 May 2008

Day 2: Lostwithiel to Shobrooke nr Crediton

Trip distance 65.9miles
Av speed; 10.41
Cycling time. 6hr 18m

An anticipated long hard day was thought be made even tougher when we woke to heavy rain in Lostwithiel. This fortunately eased off as we tucked into our full english and we were able to climb out of Lostwithiel and get on with a slow tough initial 7 miles on a busy a road towards Liskeard leaving about 930am.

Made it onto some welcome country lanes and headed across the south east corner of bodmin moor reaching the village of Minions before a spectacular long descent and then another tough 10 miles to Horsebridge and the crossing from Cornwall to Devon. Further steep ascents and descents meant we made slow progress before arriving for a late lunch in a cafe in Linford at the foothills of Dartmoor. A bit demoralised and worried by the slow progress (30miles by 2pm) , we set off to try and get some more miles under our belts. A couple of miles later we joined onto the granite way - a stunning 12+ mile route along a disused railway track running along the north west side of dartmoor running up to okehampton. The flat surface was a very welcome relief to try and bring our pitiful daily average speed back up. On top of that we were lucky to see some great scenery westwards to devon and east to dartmoor with two v impressive viaducts esp at they were only built in the late 19th c.

Pleased with the progress at okehampton we loaded up with some more water and energy drinks and met 3 other guys doing the same trip to jog and planning to arrive the day before us.

The weather by now had really started to clear and become quite sunny which made the undulating last 20 miles to our inn accomodation along country lanes that bit more pleasant stopped in Crediton for some provisions before climbing upto the red lion inn in shobrooke. Hosts v friendly and great to be so close to food and beer. A couple of beers and another hearty meal along with joining in with the local quiz bfore heading upstairs to another well earned sleep.

Sunday 25 May 2008

Day 1 Penzance to Lostwithiel mileage

Total distance 59.89m
Av speed 10.90
Trip time 5.29.25

Saturday 24 May 2008

Day 1: Penzance to Lostwithiel

Woke up in penzance to dry overcast but windy weather. A hearty full english breakfast later and we set off along the waterfront just before 9 with the destination of Lostwithiel.

Made slow but steady progress along a picturesque cornish country lanes before a mid morning snack in a pub beer garden in Porkellis. Contemplated staying till it opened but consciences got the better of us.

Next stop was the 200m chain King Harry ferry river crossing near Falmouth after about 27 miles where we met a good guy called John and some of his friends. After we said what we were doing, he let slip that between the 3 of them they had won 6 cycling track medals from the Athens olympics. - I think they could luagh at how un-aerodynamic our bikes are!

A quick late lunch at.a garage en route before we cycled down into St Austell and stopped off at Nick's housemates parents place (.the Powleslands) for a great cup of tea and a comfy sofa (anything beats a thin saddle). Resisted the temptation to watch the football and continued to make out way to our destination via halfords for a couple of extras. A few miles down the road I turned back to halfords as needed to get back wheel spokes tightened - perhaps carrying too much.. The others carried on up and up to Lostwithiel and I caught up with them at the hotel about 7pm. A long tiring day..

A quick shower before heading up the road to the Crown pub with a cornish beer festival and hog roast meeting Barry, Claire and Hazel celebrating the Munster win in the Heinekin cup. Another quick pint in Lostwithiel before heading to bed.

We're off!

Arrived into Penzance on the train and set off along the waterfront in beautiful sunshine.

Made it down to Lands End via country lanes to have our photo taken at the signpost and signing the guestbook.
Reset all our mileometers and set off back to Penzance and our accomodation for the evening.

Trip time: 51:03
Av speed: 12.78
Total mileage: 10.87 miles

Friday 23 May 2008

Day 0 - On the train...

Nick, Ed and myself are on the train from London Paddington down to Penzance.

Albeit only just as Nick and Ed arrived at the station with only 3 mins to go - a mad dash to the other end of the platform to throw our bikes in the guards van before hopping on the train just as the doors closed - nothing like a smooth start... Fingers crossed the bikes are still in one piece when we arrive.

Unfortunately, no Tom with us as he suffered a bad ankle sprain last week playing rugby. Hoping that he will be able to join us later on in the trip as and when the ankle has healed enough to cycle.

Planning to do penzance to lands end and back this evening (approx 20miles) so that we can start heading east tomorrow.

Weather as it is is overcast but with showers and strong easterlies forecast and the look of the very hilly scenery out of the train window - it looks the first few days will be very tough indeed... What are we doing?!